Monday, April 25, 2011

One Month and Counting

I have been home for exactly one month today and strangely, some parts about my former life seem more foreign to me than they did before I left in January. I don’t think that people assume me to be any different than any other African American. In the States, I am not usually mistaken for Cuban, Barbadian, Martinican or anything other than a U.S. citizen. This is definitely a shift for me. My daily mindset had been to try and make sense of things partly based upon whether people thought that I was Cuban or a foreigner. Here, that is not really a concern. I don’t have to be nervous about whether or not my speech is clear and understandable. I can ”fit in” without having to reveal to someone that I am not who they thought that I was. I am not here visiting family. I live here, and that’s not a surprise.

Not standing out in the crowd definitely has its share of advantages and disadvantages. At home, it is highly unlikely that I will experience delayed service because the waiter or waitress suspects that I have foreign citizenship. I also feel a bit more at ease in knowing that I can go places without people trying to take advantage of me because I look like a tourist. In the same respect, there is one major disadvantage that I’ve come to realize. Other people don’t seem to find me all that interesting. My hair or the way that I speak doesn’t elicit any questions or impromptu conversations from people who are eager in finding out who I am. Ricardo at the Violín pizzería or Udalia at the peluquería (beauty salon) were quick to ask me, “Why are you in Cuba? How long have you been here? What are you studying?” At home, there is nothing of the sort. I just feel like I’m walking around with this amazing secret and I’m just waiting for someone to express even the slightest bit of interest so that I can share my experiences with them.

The few friends that I have talked to since being home all want to know what I’ve been up to for the last three months. They ask about the weather, about the food, but the most popular question is, what is the one most important thing that I’ve learned while in Cuba. I’ve learned that I’m capable of doing amazing things and creating important relationships if I just get over my initial shyness. That’s my answer for now, but it may change. I find that I will only realize how much I’ve learned when those opportunities arise where I’ll do things differently than I would have done a few months ago.

One friend asked me to tell her a funny story. How could I begin to tell her about the night at the fuente when I was approached by a middle-aged vendor who singled me out as the “negrita más linda” without first explaining what the fuente is, that there are vendors who sell mani, what mani is, who was with me and then finally translating “negrita más linda.” By the end of it, the act of retelling this funny story made me feel rather depressed about the life that I had left in Havana.

I miss seeing people walking down the street. There’s just cars here. Honestly, there aren’t many streets that I’ve ever walked on if they weren’t in my neighborhood or in the more touristy, downtown area of my city. I want to walk, but I feel confined by the weather and not being near places that are designated for walking, like a public park. Here, it’s so easy to be alone—which after spending three months in a house full of friends, is a big adjustment. But I am also surprised at how easy it was for me to get back into my normal routine. Most things, like driving, using my cell phone, or turning on my stereo, was like I had never left.

Admittedly, I hesitated the first time I was asked to use my debit card because I did not know if the six digit code that came to mind was actually my PIN. I hadn’t had to recall a meaningless sequence of numbers for the last three months. As I stood in the checkout line, I bowed my head and hoped that the little screen would tell me that my payment had been approved. Yes! Managing C.U.C and moneda nacional got a little difficult at times, but I always knew how much I had and couldn’t overspend like I often do when I am swiping away with my debit card, not thinking too seriously about how each transaction eats away at my bank account.

Ordering food for my welcome back meal was also a bit of a disorienting experience. As I stood in line looking over the menu at Noodles & Company, I was a bit overwhelmed by the abundance of offerings and the thought that the employees were ready to prepare most anything that was on the menu. It wasn’t too late in the day or the wrong day for me to order a particular item. After ordering, the half liter cup I was given was so much larger than the more manageable glass cups that I had grown accustomed to using in Havana. I was reminded of our problem with proportions and over-eating. Oh, America. Furthermore, I have become a bit more conscious of the things that I eat. Additives, preservatives, “natural flavoring.” I liked knowing that when I ordered food at the cajita stand on F/5 that it was a home cooked meal that promised to be riquisimo (very delicious). Longing to find that same taste, I made my own version of pan con tortilla (a sandwhich of egg and bread sometimes with lettuce and tomato). I rarely cook, but I was really missing the Cuban cuisine that I had grown to love.

Lastly, things here just aren’t as bright as they are in Cuba. It has been overcast, and chilly since I’ve been home, and even the colors that people wear—including myself—appear to be just as drab as the weather. Where is the woman dressed in Ochún yellow from head to toe with the Dolce & Gabbana rhinestone embellished t-shirt and matching wedges? I miss her.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

What was coming to me

I have let’s see,
a desire to be included
in the Diaspora that gave birth to me.
I have a case of mistaken Cuban identity
I have a Cuban police officer asking to see my documents
expecting to get money as bribery.

I have, let’s see,
I have an M Card
A student I.D. from Casa de las Americas
A medical expense card
I carry oddities in my speech
I have a bag full of unexpected things.

When I see and touch myself,
I have a face full of ambiguities
I am a Diaspora unmet.
I am a garden prone to transplant.
Again, today, I touch a new land
Jose Marti, terminal 3
A trip made by my own volition
I am a repository of experience.

I have Havana Vieja, a walled city in my memory.
I have a disguise that even with lips painted shut can speak.
I have a blackness defined by a different country code.
Looking very closely, I am not who you think.
I can say Americana
I can say turista
I can say negra
I can say raza
I can say revolución
In any context
I have “already had enough sun.”
These are the frames of my experience,
My research, work and writing.

I have, let’s see
I have a stereotyped familiarity
That you know my name and my intentions
That I already know this type of oppression.
I have the pain of not being acknowledged
Not as a student
Not as a visitor
But as someone rehearsed to insignificance.

I have, let’s see,
That being Black,
No one will stop me
On the bus,
On the street,
But, In a hotel lobby.
In my room, the workers are surprised that I have a key
In a tourist locale, a place for which I should not have money
What is the worth of the people who accompany me?

I have let’s see
A blue collar Havana police
To question me
To uproot me from a group
And throw me in the middle of their assumptions.
I have the right to be angry?
I have the right to consent?
I have the right to discredit “racial utopia” rhetoric.
No protest
No defense
And this is the consequence
Gigantic, blue, socialist
Cuba and sea.

I had, lets see
an experience well known by many Cubans who look like me .
In this skin,
I had access to the entrails of this beautiful country.
In this skin,
I had what was coming to me.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Novelas y Piña

“Mira. Él es malo. Malo. Y ella, ella es buena. No no, ella es buena, es buena. (puffs on her cigar) She was in an accident and lost her husband and son. Sí, sí en un acidente. Now she’s in love with this one. Y ese. (Gestures at the television) Ese. He was married to that one, but when he became crippled, she left. Yes. And now she’s back to get her daughter and bring her to the United States. But this one. (points to the TV) Esa, she doesn’t want to go because she is in love. ’Perate, ’Perate, I’ll show you who when they come on. ’Perate. It’s this one. Him. Él es bueno. Eh? No no no, es bueno, es bueno. Te gustan las novelas? Ayy te gustan las novelas! Las novelas Cubanas son muy buenas no? Sí son buenas. They’re good because they talk about real life and real problems here. This one is on, hmm, a ver, (counting on her fingers) Lunes. Miercoles. Viernes. Yes Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. At 9. Yes, a las nueve y pico. ’Perate. Ah, se acabó.


Mira. (Smiling) La pelicula last night fue muy buena. Yes yes. Fue buena. There was this one, about snakes that were on a plane. Yes. They were on a plane and they killed so many people. I turned it off because I don’t like that kind of violence. Na, I don’t like that kind of movie. But the other one. It was Brazilian. It was from Brazil. It was about this man who was married and his wife, his wife was muy mala. Era mala. Muy mala. She killed her friend. Sí she killed her friend and then her husband found out and tried to stop her. Pero. But when he tried to stop her she tried to kill him too. But he. He, he was able to stop her. But he had to kill her. La mató. Sí, fue muy buena. I watched both of the novelas and then this movie and then went to bed. I didn’t go to bed till late. I don’t know why I just didn’t. Eh? I couldn’t sleep don’t ask me why. I don’t know why but I couldn’t sleep. But tonight me voy a acostar temprano. Sí, temprano. I’m so tired.


But tonight, mira, tonight, mira, tonight there’s another novella. The Brazilian one. Called Paradise Island. Yes it’s good. It’s good but not as good as the other one. The one you like. You’ll see almost all the actors in this one are the same as that one. Casi todos. And him, he’s the same in almost every Brazilian novelas. Yes the Brazilian novelas are very good. They’re good because they talk about history. About what life used to be like. Mira, this is how life used to be. This is how slaves were treated. Verda. There was one. Oh it was on for a while. I used to watch it. But it ended, and now this one just started. It’s on a las diez. A las diez y pica.


And Listen, tomorrow voy hacer jugo de piña. You like pineapple juice? Ah sí es muy rico. Jugo de piña es riquísima, but I don’t drink it. Na, na, I don’t drink it. Ay, I have to peel the pineapple. Yes. Careful of the ants. La’ Hormiga’. Buscan dulce. La’ Hormiga’ buscan dulce. Y pican tambien. Hormiga’ pican cantida. But they just look for sweets.


Ay bueno, tengo que pelar la piña. Hasta luego mi vida.”



Postscript


Over the past weeks I have spent lots of time with Maria and we have shared various conversations about a variety of subjects from politics to relationships to looking at the cars that pass below on the Malecon. I chose to write this narrative about Maria and the ways in which she explains and talks about novelas and movies. Maria loves television and is frequently watching novelas, news, movies, and a variety of shows. She is an expert on any show and it is real source of joy for her. Recently she has let me watch two novelas with her in her room and she would take it upon herself to make sure I was up to date, even though sometimes it got in the way of her own enjoyment. I love watching the novelas with her, and I think she does too, although she has said I talk too much. But Maria always makes sure that I understand who is who, their stories, and especially makes note of who is good and who is bad. Although I could have chosen to write a narrative of Maria discussing politics or giving advice or recounting her personal history, I chose instead to include a dialogue of a normal conversation between us based on something we share and do for fun together.


I didn’t have to exclude many questions because Maria will just explain things to me without much prompting. It was also very hard to write in English because I always think of Maria speaking in Spanish. However, I made a point to include a number of her common expressions in my attempt to recreate her voice. When Maria and I watch the novelas together, normally, she will constantly shift the conversation and change subject as she just says what she thinks and what she is feeling. Also, normally after we finish watching TV together, we will head into the kitchen, and I will watch and try to help her peel pineapple for the juice for breakfast. She takes extreme pride in her juice and works very hard to make it each day and keep it fresh. My favorite part of our time together is how when I go off to bed, she will say hasta luego mi vida. It’s such a sweet caring and loving expression, it reminds me of how much she cares about us and how lucky we are to have her with us.